2007年9月4日 星期二

Chaptalisation expected for Bordeaux 2007 - decanter.com - the route to all good wine

Chaptalisation expected for Bordeaux 2007 - decanter.com - the route to all good wine

Jane Anson, and Oliver Styles

The poor summer weather in Bordeaux is likely to see winemakers forced to add sugar to their wine during fermentation.Although the process, known as chaptalisation, is not illegal, it is rarely used in Bordeaux. The region is allowed to add sugar when grapes have not reached full ripeness. In 2007, low temperatures, lack of sun, and rain during maturation have all threatened the ripeness, and quality, of the grapes. The Bordeaux wine trade body (CIVB) has announced that Sauvignon Blanc, the first varietal to be harvested, can be chaptalised. The CIVB has yet to announce whether it will allow chaptalisation for other varietals including Semillon, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. With the majority of grapes still on the vine, the weather in Bordeaux continues to worry producers. 'If the weather continues to be bad, we might have a 1997 vintage on our hands,' Jean-Philippe Delmas at Chateau Haut Brion told local Sud Ouest newspaper. 'It's already certain that this won't be a super-exceptional vintage.' The 1997 vintage saw similar harvest patterns to 2007 with unusually early bud break, mildew and rot affecting many vineyards due to bad weather in late spring and early summer, and an early harvest. The 1997 wines were not well received on release and, although some wines are now showing well, it is not considered a great vintage. Most other wine regions in France, particularly in the south, only permit the addition of concentrated must (unfermented grape juice) rather than sugar. In Bordeaux, the addition of sugar can only legally add one degree of alcohol to the finished wine. Bernard Medina at the local anti-fraud office (DGCCRF) told decanter.com, 'in recent years we have had more problems with people adding water to lower its alcohol levels, rather than sugar to raise them.' The banning of chaptilisation is part of the EU wine reforms currently being looked at in Brussels. If the reforms go through, only the use of concentrated must will be allowed.

2007年8月22日 星期三

Fiche Technique

Fiche Technique

technical sheet of Bessan Segur

Bessan Ségur

Bessan Ségur

The Médoc is the famous Bordeaux peninsula known for its muscular wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Though well-known for the “classified growths” with enormous reputations, and price tags to match, the northern part of this peninsula uses simply “Médoc” for the appellation name. With a maritime climate, and porous limestone bedrock, this region rarely suffers for water as the vines can send their roots down to the aquifer. This is the home of the true values in the Médoc and serious producers can make a great wine that is affordable and approachable
Rémi Lacombe farms about 150 acres of vines that are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Understanding that great wine must come from great fruit, the attention is paid to the vines from dormant pruning through flowering and ripening doing everything possible to maintain the health of the vines. Following the harvest, the crush is fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks with a long maceration on the lees for just the right extraction of color and tannins necessary to make a balanced and long-lived wine.

After fermentation, and clarification by settling, the wine is transferred into oak barrels, using one American oak barrel to 6 French ones. Rémi feels that this adds a note of complexity to his wine and is not afraid to try new things.

The wine is aged for 12 months in the barrels, and then moved back to the vat for the final clarification before bottling. This insures a lovely clarity without sacrificing any flavor. The blend of Bessan-Ségur is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. This last grape is found mostly in the Médoc and gives a deep color and profound depth of flavor to the wine not present in wines without it. It takes the longest to mature explaining why many avoid it. Rémi feels it is worth the trouble, and I agree.
Meats and rich cheeses, duck, game, stews and savory dishes are the best pairings here.